So you have the experience, you have the training: What...

[razi_woman]

...tools/filters/lenses/lighting? do you need to be a professional photographer.... especially for on-location shoots, not studio shoots?

[Edwin]

When you say "on-location shoots..." are you referring to indoors or outdoors?

You will definitely need an assistant or two. Shooting solo only works when you're doing nature photography. You'll have to train your assistants in all aspects of setting up lighting, using diffusers and reflectors and whatever else you may need them to do.

Indoors you'll need a portable light system, preferably flash with reflectors. You may need a diffusion screen if faced with harsh light from large windows. The Oct. 2006 issue of Shutterbug magazine had an article on lighting and equipment. Check for it at shutterbug.com.

A hand-held light meter for flash will help you with exposures. (The Minolta SpotMeter F is widely used by pros - and pricey even on ebay. Do some research on other makes and compare them to it.) You'll also want it with you outdoors since it has an "averaging" mode which can help you balance the light and exposure.

Since its likely you'll be faced with mixed lighting - natural, artificial and flash - you might want to invest in an ExpoDisc for better white balance. (Go to shutterbug.com to read the review of it in the May 2007 issue.)

A tripod if you're doing product shoots. Have it with you even if you're shooting people. Its better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.

For outdoor work you'll want reflectors and diffusers. Your reflectors should be white on one side and gold on the other. (A gold toned one will add warmth). You'll want diffusers to help control harsh sunlight. Carry your portable flash system (see "Its better to have it..." above. Just be skilled in using fill flash - you don't want to be faced with it and have to try and figure it out as you go. That almost guarantees failure.) Have a Skylight filter on your lens - to protect it and to remove any bluish tint that you get in shooting in open shade.

When possible, spend some time before the scheduled shoot at the location. This allows you to pre-plan and lessens the chance of "surprises". Imagine your reaction if you're asked to shoot the company CEO and you arrive to find his office has the lighting of a cave - or its all windows on three sides.

When shooting people, use your people skills to build a rapport with your subject or subjects. A few minutes spent in conversation helps them relax and builds their trust in you. They may have some ideas of their own about posing - if you know beforehand you can make the necessary adjustments. (While chatting you can observe your subject. If they have a receding chin or a huge nose but think their profile is their "best" side you'll have to overcome this. This is true multi-tasking: having a conversation while racking your brain on what to do). Most of all, don't give the impression that you're in any hurry - people innately sense this and may feel resentful. Not a recipe for for a succesful shoot.

As the old Boy Scout motto says "Be prepared."

Good luck.

[antoni m]

Not sure how to answer you as knowing the answer to the question is part of the experience and training.

Tripod, I use TV lights mainly (2000w and 800w, Dedos with adjustable/directional output) for interiours etc, flashes - off camera , filters yes, reflectors.

Lens depends on the job/images, from one lens to 3 or four might be used on a job. sometimes a shift/tilt is needed for Architecture for example.

not studio is a big area, so my answer is vague

a